Leather and faux leather are heat-sensitive and unforgiving — one over-press can blister or discolor. Go cool, and test a hidden spot.
The number on your press is a suggestion. Presses ship miscalibrated, read differently across the platen, and drift over time — the panel can say 280°F while the print only sees 240°F. What actually bonds a transfer is the print reaching 280°F for 3–5 seconds at firm pressure. So you may need to set your press higher — often 300–310°F — to get there. Dial in your press once, then trust it.
Presses read differently and drift — it's not uncommon for even new heat presses to be off by 20% or more. Answer a few quick questions and we'll get you a good starting point to dial in from.
A 2–3 second tap flattens the garment and drives off any moisture. Our film no longer needs it to bond — but a flat, dry surface still gives the most even contact, so it's worth it in humidity or on a garment that's been sitting.
280°F · 3–5 sec · firm 90 psi. Heat and pressure settle the TPU into the fibers. Hit the number and lift.
Don't re-press leather. Real leather can blister and faux leather can bubble under a second application of heat — one press only.
| Feel | Pneumatic (psi) | Manual dial (1–9) | What it looks like |
|---|---|---|---|
| Light | 20–40 | 1–3 | Paper slides out easily |
| Medium | 30–50 | 4–5 | Paper drags a little |
| Medium-firm | 40–60 | 5–6 | Firm tug to pull paper |
| Our spec — firm | 90 | 7–9 | Paper won't budge |
On a pneumatic press, set the gauge to 90 psi. On a manual clamshell, aim for a solid two-finger effort to latch, then confirm with the paper-drag test.
Closes at a slight angle, so thick seams take more force at the hinge. Great for flat tees — just latch fully for even contact.
The platen comes straight down for the most even pressure. Best on thick goods like hoodies, denim, and canvas.
Air holds identical pressure every cycle — set 90 psi once and every press matches. Ideal for volume.
Always test a hidden area first — heat damage to leather is permanent.
Real leather: wipe the surface with isopropyl alcohol before pressing to help adhesion.
Use light-to-medium pressure — leather marks easily.
Don't re-press: faux leather bubbles and real leather blisters under repeated heat.
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blistered or discolored patch | Too much heat for real leather | Lower and shorten; test a hidden spot before the real piece | Finish |
| Faux leather bubbled or deformed | Over-pressed synthetic surface | Light pressure, a single press, and test first | Finish |
| Print won't adhere to real leather | Surface oils or finish blocking the bond | Wipe with isopropyl alcohol, then press and test | Adhesion |
Yes, with a light touch. Keep the heat low, use light pressure, press once, and always test a hidden spot first — leather damage can't be undone.
Both are heat-sensitive. Real leather can blister and benefits from an isopropyl-alcohol wipe first; faux leather can bubble, so use light pressure and never re-press.
Upload a design and our preflight scores how it'll press on leather — ink density, hand feel, and adhesion, before you order.
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