Athletic wear is the trickiest fabric: polyester that migrates, spandex that hates heat, and coatings that resist adhesion. Our low 280°F is a real advantage here.
The number on your press is a suggestion. Presses ship miscalibrated, read differently across the platen, and drift over time — the panel can say 280°F while the print only sees 240°F. What actually bonds a transfer is the print reaching 280°F for 3–5 seconds at firm pressure. So you may need to set your press higher — often 300–310°F — to get there. Dial in your press once, then trust it.
Presses read differently and drift — it's not uncommon for even new heat presses to be off by 20% or more. Answer a few quick questions and we'll get you a good starting point to dial in from.
A 2–3 second tap flattens the garment and drives off any moisture. Our film no longer needs it to bond — but a flat, dry surface still gives the most even contact, so it's worth it in humidity or on a garment that's been sitting.
280°F · 3–5 sec · firm 90 psi. Heat and pressure settle the TPU into the fibers. Hit the number and lift.
Keep the post-press light — performance fabrics are heat-sensitive and can glaze. A textured sheet still helps the hand feel.
| Feel | Pneumatic (psi) | Manual dial (1–9) | What it looks like |
|---|---|---|---|
| Light | 20–40 | 1–3 | Paper slides out easily |
| Medium | 30–50 | 4–5 | Paper drags a little |
| Medium-firm | 40–60 | 5–6 | Firm tug to pull paper |
| Our spec — firm | 90 | 7–9 | Paper won't budge |
On a pneumatic press, set the gauge to 90 psi. On a manual clamshell, aim for a solid two-finger effort to latch, then confirm with the paper-drag test.
Closes at a slight angle, so thick seams take more force at the hinge. Great for flat tees — just latch fully for even contact.
The platen comes straight down for the most even pressure. Best on thick goods like hoodies, denim, and canvas.
Air holds identical pressure every cycle — set 90 psi once and every press matches. Ideal for volume.
Our low 280°F beats hotter transfers on athletic wear — less risk of scorch and migration to begin with.
Poly-heavy or dark garments: drop toward 265–270°F and test, just like polyester.
Use light-to-medium pressure so you don't imprint the stretch fabric.
If a print won't stick, a moisture-wicking or water-repellent coating may be blocking it — test and confirm full contact.
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Colored halo on dark performance wear | Dye migration from the polyester base | Lower the temp, shorten the time, and test | Finish |
| Print won't adhere | A wicking or water-repellent coating on the fabric | Test on a scrap; ensure full, even contact under the platen | Adhesion |
| Fabric looks glazed or shiny | Too much heat for a synthetic stretch fabric | Reduce temp and pressure; use a cover sheet | Finish |
Yes — and our low 280°F setting is well suited to them. Poly-heavy or dark pieces should be pressed cooler (265–270°F) and tested first for dye migration.
It combines polyester (which migrates), spandex (which is heat-sensitive), and often a chemical wicking coating. Lower heat and a test press keep all three happy.
Upload a design and our preflight scores how it'll press on performance — ink density, hand feel, and adhesion, before you order.
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