Nylon's slick finish is heat-sensitive and can shine or scorch. Our 280°F is already gentle — but always test first.
The number on your press is a suggestion. Presses ship miscalibrated, read differently across the platen, and drift over time — the panel can say 280°F while the print only sees 240°F. What actually bonds a transfer is the print reaching 280°F for 3–5 seconds at firm pressure. So you may need to set your press higher — often 300–310°F — to get there. Dial in your press once, then trust it.
Presses read differently and drift — it's not uncommon for even new heat presses to be off by 20% or more. Answer a few quick questions and we'll get you a good starting point to dial in from.
A 2–3 second tap flattens the garment and drives off any moisture. Our film no longer needs it to bond — but a flat, dry surface still gives the most even contact, so it's worth it in humidity or on a garment that's been sitting.
280°F · 3–5 sec · firm 90 psi. Heat and pressure settle the TPU into the fibers. Hit the number and lift.
Keep any post-press light and brief — nylon's finish scorches and shines easily under sustained heat.
| Feel | Pneumatic (psi) | Manual dial (1–9) | What it looks like |
|---|---|---|---|
| Light | 20–40 | 1–3 | Paper slides out easily |
| Medium | 30–50 | 4–5 | Paper drags a little |
| Medium-firm | 40–60 | 5–6 | Firm tug to pull paper |
| Our spec — firm | 90 | 7–9 | Paper won't budge |
On a pneumatic press, set the gauge to 90 psi. On a manual clamshell, aim for a solid two-finger effort to latch, then confirm with the paper-drag test.
Closes at a slight angle, so thick seams take more force at the hinge. Great for flat tees — just latch fully for even contact.
The platen comes straight down for the most even pressure. Best on thick goods like hoodies, denim, and canvas.
Air holds identical pressure every cycle — set 90 psi once and every press matches. Ideal for volume.
Always test on an inside seam or hidden area first — nylon damage is permanent.
Use light pressure to avoid imprinting the fabric's finish.
A durable water-repellent (DWR) coating can block adhesion. If it won't stick, that's usually why.
Press bags and jackets with a pillow under the print so seams don't create uneven contact.
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shiny or scorched patch | Too hot or pressed too long for the nylon finish | Shorten the dwell and test; keep any post-press brief | Finish |
| Print lifts or won't adhere | Slick nylon finish or a water-repellent coating | Use light pressure, ensure full contact, and test | Adhesion |
| Seam ridges show through the print | Pressing across a raised seam | Use a pressing pillow to level the surface | Finish |
Yes, with care. Our 280°F setting is already on the gentle side for nylon — test a hidden spot, use light pressure, and keep any post-press brief.
Many nylon items have a durable water-repellent (DWR) coating that resists adhesion. Test on a scrap and make sure you're getting full, even contact.
Upload a design and our preflight scores how it'll press on nylon — ink density, hand feel, and adhesion, before you order.
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